With the recent developments in the field of hardwood floor installation, you need not require professional help from carpenters for installing hardwood floors. The task of installing hardwood floors can be easily performed by anyone now. This has been possible with the availability of pre-finished flooring, where the wood is factory-finished and saves the labor of sanding and finishing it manually.
Other than the ever-popular red oak, there are many varieties of hardwood which are available in several colors and textures to add a touch of class to your home. Selection of the type of material you want to use in installing hardwood floors can become easier if you do a search on the Internet or make a preliminary visit to a hardware shop.
Pre-finished flooring can be bought online or from a merchant you trust. After you get the wood home, you should stack the wood in the room it will be installed in for a few day to let it adjust to the normal humidity level. This is important to do because moisture makes wood expand. Leave a half inch between the floor and the wall when installing your flooring. This space could be covered with a baseboard or molding strip later.
For the actual installation of the floors, follow the instructions given by the supplier. These are usually the things you have to do step-by-step to get a custom finish on the floor. The wood comes already micro-beveled to allow for expansion of wood during the summer.
If your flooring is very old and looks it, you can also refinish it to make it look like new. Before the job starts, remove furniture, rugs, drapes and all articles on the floor. Refinished flooring takes about three days to be ready for use again, during which time keep the doors and windows of the room closed to prevent airborne dust entering inside. After the job is finished, it is advisable to allow one more day before placing the furniture and other items back on the floor.
Laminate floors are yet easier to install, and they require little upkeep. This flooring stands up especially well to heavy traffic, the sort that comes with pets and children, and is very resistant to scratches and stains. An interlocking tongue and groove system makes this flooring easy to install.
There are a lot of things to consider when choosing your flooring, but rest assured that manufacturers have come a long way in making their flooring options easier to install. Make sure the instructions that come with your flooring material are clear and make sense, and don’t be afraid to ask questions before you buy.
About the author: For more information on hardwood flooring, visit us at http://www.refinishedhardwood.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
what grit paper should be used when sanding a #2 3/4 inch red oak hardwood flooring with sander?
You start with 60 grit and go to 150 grit and finish with 220 grit. The higher the number the finer the grit.
red oak flooring?
looking to buy red oak 3/4 thick 2.1/4 with of boards Anyone know where I can purchase at a reasonable price. Also is it better to buy prefinished and save on labor to sand and coat or raw and pay for sand and poly
You might try Lumber Liquidators through the internet. I had the raw floors in one house, but my last two we did prefinished and I would never do raw again. The prefinished are not only so much nicer but they are hardier as they have so many more coats of poly on them. After 10 years in my last house, they looked as good as new.
LA/OC area, just refinished 50yr old red oak floors. I want 4th bdrm (plywood) 2 match. Where do I find wood?
try scouting out some local stores: If you have a sample of what you’re looking for Im sure they can find it for you: Here’s a store directory so you can type in your state and zip, and a list will pop up with a whole bunch of stores in your area: I hope this helps:
Good Luck! Im serious too, your local professional will spend more time with you and be more likely to find it!
Do cinnamon maple caniets look ok with red oak floors?
I purchased cinanamon maple cabinets by Kountry Kitchen witch almost look like a damp natural wood and am placing red oak floor with clear polyurethane and wonder if they should look good? Should I go with red oak cabinets too or will it look too bland cause I hear that a contrast is nice. Also I hear that red oak clear wikll eventually turn yellow and if so then the 2 should combin nicely but what about grain? should they be the same? any tips or advice will be appreciated.
I think cinnamon cabinets would go great with red oak. It gives it more contrast and you can see a difference over time. I think using both reds is a little too matchy. Good luck!
Do I need to use 1/8 underlayment as Sub-flooring for oak floor in older home?.?
I am installing 2 1/2″ wide red oak floor over a old maple tongue and groove floor some part are very irrigular. Do I need to use 1/8 underlayment (plywood type) or can I use the roll type of underlayment? Also do I need to screw down all the old floor first? I am putting hardwood flooring in the bathroom too, what is the recommended underlayment for that?
As long as your total thickness of underlayment is at least 3/4″ you should be ok. Actually, for each layer you have, I personally would increase that minimum by 1/4″
This should not be a problem in your case.
In the bathroom you don’t state if you currently have maple there.
If you currently have carpet over particle board you must rip out the particle board and put down plywood using the same formula I have outlined above.
I also agree with those that say that you should level the floor. This will help prevent squeaks and assure that the flooring doesn’t work loose over time. I have never had to do this, but i wonder if you could almost do this on a row by row basis, where you nail the wood in place and then just fill in some grout type material in any gaps. At least for short gaps less than a foot I would think this would work. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
Why is my recently laid red oak floor ‘curling’ at the edges?
It was fitted about 2 months ago in the kitchen. I’ve been very careful with it & ensured it hasn’t got wet. To clean it I use a very slightly damp cloth & dry it off. Each floorboard is beginning to ‘curl’ – help!
The packs were opened & left in the kitchen several days before laying.
Curling is cupping downward of the edges and the crowning of the middle.
It is most likely not from your careful cleaning. Especially this soon after installation, and because “Each floorboard” is beginning to curl.
Curling is the result of what happens to flooring when it was sanded when the moisture was still too high in the wood. When the flooring dries out, the edges curl downward, causing crowning in the center of the boards.
Is the job warranted by the installer?
I would recommend contacting them, but look into an independent inspector to also look at it. A web search show this industry is famous for giving the run around to home owners.
Note: Cupping is the uplifting of the edges of flooring due to excessive moisture. If this is what is happening, go ahead and contact the installer, but check out how much moisture is coming through the floor. If the flooring was installed to the manufacturer’s specifications for underlayment and moisture barrier this shouldn’t be an issue, unless you have a house with a damp swampy basement, with damp roting under-flooring, or with old wet well under the floor. After just two month it is most likely Curling from the wood’s moisture at time of installation.
Do I need moisture barrier before installing red oak wood Flooring?
we bought this very nice red oak wood flooring. I think its some kind of engineered flooring. Anyway my question is do I need a moister barrier in my 2nd story rooms? The house was built in 2004 ( in case that matters) I know I have to put a foam down to reduce the noise but I don’t think that the 2nd story has any moister.
Oh by the way we are in south California so it is warm and dry most of the year.
Thanks for all you help
ok I checked under the carpeting it sound like wood but is painted with some white paint / coated ???
could I use the padding under my carpet for noise reduction instead of buying the foam?
thanks for all ou help guys… when it comes to handy work its hard to be a single girl
I install alot of this type flooring and will tell you, It’s ALWAYS recommended to use an underlayment when installing a laminated/engineered/floating floor over any type of subfloor regardless of location and elevation. If for no other reason, the floor feels and sounds better, solid like real plank. It also levels out any minor surface imperfections.
I always buy and install the best foam underlayment available as it is thicker, more dense, and makes the biggest difference in such a floors feel; and just as important. . . it provides a good degree of sound insulation. If you’re going to install this yourselves and want or need some tips or help on achieving professional appearance and aesthetics on this project feel free to contact me and I’ll walk you through it.
Which is better — 2 coats of sanding sealer + 2 coats of polyurethane or 4 straight coats of polyurethane?
I am getting quotes on the installation of new unfinished red oak floors that will be stained medium brown. The major differences in the quotes are:
Quote 1) 2 coats of Fabulon sanding sealer and 2 coats of Fabulon Professional oil modifed polyurethane
Quote 2) 4 coats of Fabulon polyurethane
The 4 coats is slightly more expensive. What is better, quote 1 or quote 2 and why?
We did two rooms and a hall ourselves and it was recommended that we do 4 coats of poly. It turned out beautiful. Each coat got better, much smoother, and even a richer flooring all over. Why aren’t you doing it yourself? Rent the sander with vacuum, use 3 different grades of sandpaper and in 4 hours you are ready to stain or finish. You cannot walk on it with socks, only bare feet because your socks will let a linen look. It took about 4-6 hours to dry after each coat. We left it overnight each time. You brush it on with a smooth cloth applicator. It is not hard to do.
What color couch & chairs should I put in a living room with golden oak floors, 2 red brick walls & windows?
This is probably quite odd, but I’m googling looking for pictures or advice as to what color sofas to put in a room!? I was hoping to find some pictures that would give me the answer, and am now resorting to finding if I can find someone on a blog that can give me some advice?! I would appreciate if you can direct me to the right place or help me yourself!
We are US expats moving to the Netherlands & having to furnish the house (our stuff is back home in storage!) Fortunately, there is an ikea down the road that makes it affordable & pretty easy. I love this one page in their new catalog, where the couches are gray & chairs are white: http://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/catalog/categories/departments/living_room/tools/livingroom_rooms_ideas#/20121_lirs09a_01
But the floors in the room are a golden oak with two walls of red brick & a back wall of windows trimmed in redwood stain. It’s the golden oak floors that make me think I need to go brown…in which case there is dark brown, khaki, and of course a natural color (but wouldn’t that get really dirty?!)
Here is a link to the ikea sofa color choices (we can specify a 3 person sofa & then either a 2 person sofa or 2 chairs, so can mix up colors): http://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/catalog/products/S29875859/
When I see pictures online, I see black & white on floors like this. Most of the house will be black/white/gray, so one brown room might seem odd? what do you think? Help please!
try http://www.modernrugs.co.uk/ for some room pics and funky flooring – maybe you can get a fantastic statement rug that will dictate your scheme, then pick some neutral ektorp sofas to go with it? That’s a british site but they probably deliver to the netherlands and many of their rugs are amazingly cheap, even compared with Ikea.
Installing red oak hardwood floor?
I am planning on installing unfinished red oak hardwood floor, and then finish it. I have some questions regarding the procedure, If anyone has first hand experience please help me out
1) Do I need underlayment before laying the hardwood
2) How many times should I sand he floor, Is it (36 – 60 -80) or (60-80-100)
3) When should I apply wood filler, Or is it actually required?
4) What is the sequence of applying stain and final coating, and buffing
#2 -3 times start with 60 then 100 then 120
#3 no wood filler
#4 stain with grain, direction, wipe, stain across grain, wipe
let dry 24 to 48 hrs
sand with 120 [staining will make the grain rise]
vac damp wipe, let dry 8 hrs
seal with grain then across grain, let each coat dry 24 to 48 hrs
tack wipe between coats, do not buff, for 5 days
need some idea on colour for walls to two rooms. Putting down Red Oak Rustic Floors. 1reading rm. 2ND comp.rm?
i would suggest you go to a paint store and pick out paint chips that you like. take them home and lean on the wall close to floor and look at it in different light (morning,afternoon, evening) with lights on and off. that should help you in picking out a color that you like. not what someone likes.
Do you know anything about staining solid oak floors?
I just bought 3 1/2 in oak flooring for my new house. Ive got it sitting in the living room. The amish floor installer told me to pick some minwax stain. I like the sedona red, but my brother says oak does not stain well, and it may turn the floors a different color than what I want. Do you know anything about staining oak floors sedona red?
If you actually go to any store that sells stain, you will find a hanging display “thing” that has the main types of wood, and all the MinWax colors and how that type of wood looks stained with them.
We are about to have a wood floor installed in our family room which abuts our large eat-in kitchen mainly?
for the below reasons:
1. Provide more continuity since the kitchen is right “next door”.
Our wood floor in the kitchen is stained red oak.
2. Our carpet is badly stained (thanks to messy kids and naughty 5
lb. chihuahuas). We’ve been told hardwood floors are easier to keep
clean when having to wipe up after the Chihuahua (thank goodness
she is not a big breed).
3. We are hoping our Chihuahua doesn’t even soil the new hardwood
since all prior scents will be gone — and FYI she has never gone on
our hardwood throughtout the house (fingers crossed!)
So here, finally, is my question:
In speaking with several friends who are really involved with animal rescue and often foster cats and dogs until a home can be found for them — they have all recommended BAMBOO wood flooring. They say it is not as attractive to dogs with housebreaking issues — but easier to clean if there are any “accidents”. It is less expensive, but I wonder if it is durable and will last as long as traditional wood floors — and also would they be able to match bamboo with my existing kitchen red oak flooring?
Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
I would suggest a different floor colour, or have the kitchen flooring restained to match the new floor. Bamboo is getting rave reviews. Personally I do not know anything about it, but talk in detail with the people you know who have it. You might want to consider laminate, or tiles, but tiles can be cold on the feet in winter if you have that. Laminate is inexpensive enough that it can be replaced in a few years if needed. Tiles (ceramic or Porcelain) can be extremely durable with animals. You can replace your flooring with wood, but the problem is the colour. If you can bring home samples (most flooring stores allow this) to hold up against your kitchen floor you will be able to get a better idea of what will look great and be what you need while living with animals in training. Be sure to have a very indepth conversation with the professionals at the flooring store..they can suggest ideas for durability/scratch resistance flooring.
How hard is it to refinsh hardwood floors?
we have carpet over our hardwood (375 sq ft) but with all of the traffic the carpet gets (myself and husband along with 6 children, the neighborhood children and a mini schnauzer) I’m cleaning carpets 2-3 times a month. It is getting really tiresome to say the least. I’m thinking that keeping red oak floors clean could be an easier task but I don’t even know what the floors look like… I’m going to guess and say that they need to be refinished at the very least. How hard is it to refinsh? I know you have to sand them and stain a sand a put poly on them sand more ploy and etc… It would be done while we are camp for the week so traffic and furniture will be removed. Just the workers will be in the house!!
This is something you’ll want a professional to do. Sounds like you have a day of sanding, a day to stain and three days for three coats of finish. You may also have damage beyond just refinishing, fixing would depend on how badly it was damaged. A weeks work then two days for the finish to cure before furniture goes back on.
Your local flooring store (I like Flooring America) can do this for you. Beware of guys in trucks who offer to do it for half – they are only offering a taillight warranty.
Figure about .50/sf to refinish, plus any incedental charges that might be necessary for your specific situation plus cost of furniture moving and resetting.
Don’t try to do this yourself unless you have really substantial diy skills. You’ll end up making a mess the installers will have to fix before they can properly refinish your floors and it will cost you more.
There are two different types of finishes you can use:
Urethane, a coating, (think fingernail polish) which is the traditional US look. It comes in water and oil base and various gloss finishes. For your situation, you’ll want the oil based satin or matte finish (I’ve never actually seen the matte). This type of floor will need the attention of a professional when it starts to show wear.
Monocoat is a penetrating finish and has become very popular in europe. It penetrates the fibers of the wood and is not a glossy surface at all. It is also something you can add to the floor yourself when some areas start to show wear.
This is the finish I would recommend for you due to the sheer amount of wear your floor gets. This type of finish would go on much faster than I described above, cost is about the same. This is not something you’ll want to do yourself, again unless you have very substantial diy skills.
Ack. I’m starting to feel like I’m at work. Good luck with that!.
Unfinished furniture: staining vs. painting?
We purchased a lot of unfinished wood furniture for our home office. Basically desks, filing cabinets, drawers and large storage cabinets that will line 2 walls of the room. We have hardwood red oak floors in the room.
My question is, should we paint it or stain it? Originally we planned on staining it, but are having issues with doing that ourselves. I always thought painting wood furniture was only for junky old furniture you got at garage sales, but my husband thinks it might look nice.
If the furniture is a nice hard wood, I would not paint it. If it’s pine, you can paint or stain. Remember if you plan on staining a soft wood like pine, use a pre-conditioner to prevent the soft wood from absorbing too much stain and coming out with a darker tone than you expect.
hardwood floor problems?
We have a three year old Lauzon red oak Lauzon floor installed directly over concrete subfloor on our main level of kitchen/lr/dr/fr/hallways. It has scratched, dented, cupped, separated, boards are cracking -particularly in the kitchen. Our builder has brought 2 inspectors out which say the floor is favorable although damaged in a few areas in the kitchen due to some inexplainable disaster(s). We have had no disasters and the floor continues to worsen in door ways and along walls….
We think it is a substandard material which should not have been installed directly on top of the subfloor although the mfger says this is what it is designed to do. This flooring needs to be replaced, any ideas how we fight this battle with the builder? Floor was to have a 20 yr wear guarantee. Mfger says not a wear problem.Thanks for any input….
It sound to me that the installer may have used the wrong glue. Or the wrong type of wood. Needs to be engined, it will look like plywood with a hardwood top layer. Cupping can also be from installing the wood tight to the wall, it needs a space along the wall. Ask for an indepent inspector to look at it. Ask to see the report. Keep pushing something is wrong. Have you talked to the selling store?
An acceptable tolerance in height from wood floor to tile. Need answer tonight.?
I have basement with glued and concrete nailed 3/4″ plywood subfloor. The concrete under the subfloor was not leveled first.
I have 2 1/4″ red oak strip flooring installed directly onto the plywood subfloor. I have porcelain tile on top of 1/4″ Hardibacker that meets the oak flooring. The sanded and finished oak is 1/16″ or less higher than the tile. The extra height on the oak flooring has been chamfered/beveled down to the tile. Is this an acceptable tolerance? The subflooring makes for a very wavy floor and most of the height difference is less than 1/16″. I really need an answer to this tonight please. Also please include the NWFA link if you can. I don’t need someones opinion. “Just the facts, ma’am.”
Anything over 1/4″ would be a violation of ADA in the US.
This is your basement, so basically whatever you want goes.
A 1/16″ is minimal and hardly noticeable.
What should I consider when i choose flooring in my kitchen?
I like a gray black stone look tile. It looks good with my appliances and cabinets, but want a mid century farmhouse vibe. I think it could look too modern. The appliance are light pickled maple. The cabinet hardware is antique bronze and looks black.
Other considerations are that there are 2 doorways one to Living Room, the floor there is light beige carpet, and one to the Dining Room the floor there is red oak. A lot of the house from the entry and down the hall is also red oak. I think of changing the kitchen to hardwood to match, but think the left over patch of carpet in the living room could look odd. If I hardwood the entire upstairs I would REALLY stretch my budget.
If you read this and can help me then I thank you very much. We bought a fixer upper in the country. I don’t have enough money to make mistakes. I like a real comfortable & unpretentious look. I see magazines where when done right homey 1940′s touches work with modern materials and stainless appliances. That is what I want to achieve. I prefer cotton, maybe semi sheers or print cafe curtains at the bay window. I may have to buy new, but my round table is an old 50′s laminate top, maple.
Obviously, I can’t afford a decorator. Thanks all!
You really have a big order to fill on a small budget so here is what I suggest: If you have samples or even good photos of the area you want to tackle first take those with you to Lowe’s or Home-Depot and ask to see what they have that you think would best match what it is your doing. I know “Bruce” hardwood flooring has allot of different kinds of looks and Im sure they will have what will work for you as well, not to mention they may have some paint selections to make everything blend in as well. If you cant afford to hire someone to do the work you will need to allow for making some mistakes because if you have never done any of this before you will make mistakes, even the pros screw up once in awhile.
Will these wall paint colors look good for basement family room?
I have a rectangular basement family room, 11 feet by 22 feet (ceiling is white, 8 feet high), there is a door going through a narrow wall, and two windows (5 feet long, 3 feet high, each) on the right side long wall, with a ledge under the windows. We will lay Red Oak Gunstock laminate floor, which looks very similar to hardwood (individual planks that are 2″ wide, 3 different lengths.)
On the left and front wall I will paint a darkish Balkan Sea blue.
On the right wall with the windows, and the narrow wall with the door through it, will paint it Wilton Blue.
Will have white baseboard trim and window casing trim.
I think painting the whole room Balkan Sea would make the room too dark looking.
The room has two light fixtures in it with 2 bulbs in each fixture. I think they are 60 watt equivalent mini florescent bulbs.
I have a similar size room, but larger windows, and have the timber arround the skirting boards, and a lighter colour on the ceiling and a darker colour on the walls.
I think your colours look lovely ( i have viewed them)
i wouldnt worry too much about the room looking dark , as long as you have a light ceiling , it will look great! be confident you have chosen well!!have had a lot of decor experience.I do it part time.
What color should floor molding be?
My walls are currently painted in white as is the molding and the quarter round attached to it.
I am planning to repaint the walls – either in ivory or off white or lite peach color. This color will still be a very light color but not white.
1). My question is should I repaint the molding and quarter round (provided they should be same color) in white or same color as I will choose for the walls?
My current flooring is hardwood (red oak) yet since it is in not so good condition (pet urine stains and few old pieces) I am thinking of laying either a Pergo (Durant Beach) or Tarket engineered wood on top ot the existing floors.
2) If I choose to do that should I keep the molding that’s currently in place and just replace the quarter round?
This will make the existing molding appear a bit shorter in height as the new quarter round will go on top of the addtional 8 millimeters (the new Pergo or Tarkett floor).
3) Should I replace both the molding and the quarter round?
Should the moldings be the color of the new floor or white as they are now or the new color of the walls?
The floor molding should be the same color as the trim around the room
Mating a new floor with the bottom of a door frame?
I’m nailing down 1/2″ thick engineered wood flooring. The flooring manufacture recommends a 1/2″ gap for expansion at all vertical surfaces. The bottom of the back door frame is 1/4″ thicker than the flooring and there’s a 2″ wide threshold on top of that set about 2.5″ from the inside edge of the bottom of the frame. The door swings outward. Door, frame and trim work are all red oak and the floor is a light tobacco colored Brazilian Teak. The flooring is running perpendicular to the door. If I use another threshold or T-molding to cover that 1/2″ expansion gap I think it’ll look a little odd with two thresholds with a 1.5″ gap between them. I’m looking for any other suggestions on how to cover this gap. I was considering trying to rout out the underside of the door frame so as to slide my flooring underneath. I know I’d have to hand cut the ends where the router stops and I have a Japanese style saw for that. But I’m new to routering and haven’t been to the store yet to see if there are any bits available to do this. I’m also not sure yet how that will affect my ability to seal there either as it is an entry door. That entry is covered by a large porch but I’m sure there will still be some water tracked in at some point.
I want to do this right and have it look good. Any suggestions at all will help.
I d cheat just a bit on the gap right there ( 1/4 “) and then cover it with a caulk or what I d do is put in a stained reducer from your threshold to the wood. Even a small pc of shoe molding will work . I ve put in a lot of wood over the years and have never seen a maker call for a 1/2″ gap. GL
need advice on applying oil polyurathane to stained floor.?
need 1 more bit advice- so far with your help sanding and applying oil base miniwax- red oak color to hardwood floor went great. now i need 2-3 coats of oil base poly. how do i apply? with roller,they say is difficult with brush or lambs wool?.please leave me some advice.
I used a roller for the first time 2 years ago and it worked fine, and its faster and doesn’t streak. Be careful to choose the right nap ( read the labels; they’ll tell you what the roller is suitable for). Attach the roller to a “broomstick” pole so you don’t have to creep around. Watch it closely so you don’t miss a spot, which can happen with this method, but only if you rush it. Don’t put the roller down and come back after a snack- do it all at one sitting to prevent tackiness and a poor finish. Use a new roller for the next coat. Rollers can be reused if you clean them thoroughly, but I don’t know if you want that trouble.
My sims 2 game has an error.?
I had sims 2 on my computer but I uninstalled it. No I would like to play it again it won’t let me auto run so i manually installed it. When I go to build a family the floors is white and it has black and red text saying “OAK FLOOR” and something different where the walls should be. So I decided I’ll just go to a pre-build family but it loading screen shows the sims with there arms extended out and when it finished loading the game crashed.
try installing the newest version through a patch if available.
What is a good price for real hardwood floors to be installed?
We’re wanting red oak, 2 3/4 ” planks in select grade. Installed and then finished. For 2400 square feet I was quoted about a sq. foot installed.
Do you think that’s reasonable?
It really depends on where you live. Get another quote or two.
For this price the contractor is supplying the wood, felt paper underlayment, nails, subfloor preparation, floor installation, transition strips, labor to install, labor and material to sand and finish. Assuming it’s a dealer with a fixed location and good reputation who will stand behind his work, and you are willing to pay 200.00 it’s a fair price. Also, are you getting 2-3/4″ or 2-1/4″? 2-1/4″ is more prevalent than 2-3/4″.
I’m in Florida where the wood cost more due to shipping and the skilled labor market is fairly tight so it would cost more than .00 unless you maybe found someone who worked out of his car with no showroom or overhead. If you live closer to where the wood comes from or in a horribly depressed market, that will factor in to the price.
Let’s take the Lowe’s persons quote of .00 and then you pay someone .50 to sand and finish. The difference comes to .50 per square foot. Let’s say they screw it up and start pointing fingers at each other leaving you in the middle. You’ll wish you spent that extra 00.00.
I’m thinking of painting our hardwood floors a barn-red color.?
We have oak hardwood floors in our open-plan house. They cover the living room, dining room, foyer, stairs, kitchen and eating area. They are in fairly rough shape and we don’t have it in the budget to refinish and are interested in painting them.
We have a leather sofa and neutral chairs in the LR. One armoire in the LR is mustard yellow and the other armoire is a mid-tone green. The chest and tables are ebony stained. Walls are a bit deeper than butter yellow.
The DR has a dark mahogany finish on the table, chairs and large wall unit. Walls are pumpkin orange.
The kitchen has white cabinetry with lime green walls.
We are willing to change the wall colors.
There is no division between the rooms, so I think we will have to finish the entire floor in the same finish.
We have 2 young kids and 3 dogs.
We like color!
We are thinking of painting the entire floor a brownish red (barn-red). Any designers want to offer their input? Thanks!
While I think red floors could work, I don’t think they will work in your house. You have so much colored furniture that it will likely look like circus.
Also red, floors will really hurt resale value.
Refinishing is the best value investment. I would save up for that.
How can I remove clear (nail hardener type) nail polish from a new prefinished oak wood floor?
There are 2, small, light colored drips in living room that are obvious to me. I read the answer for removing red lacquer based nail polish with mineral spirits, but would that also apply to clear hardener type? I assume they are polyurethane finished.
Mix a few drops of a mild dish detergent into a bucket of warm water. Rub the stain with a soft cloth wet with the solution.
Best paint color to match light oak cabinet & brown couch?
Looking to paint my living room – small room, only about 15×15, 2 small windows. Not a whole lot of natural light, but there are 4 recessed lights in the ceiling. Was planning on a deep orange, but am afraid that won’t work with my honey oak entertainment unit. Couch is dark brown, floor is undecided. The room partially opens to the kitchen, which is a deep red/burgandy. White isn’t an option, and I don’t want to do a sage green… any suggestions???
Because oak is a yellow tone and you have the dark brown floor, you need to find something that is in the warm category, or a complementary cool color. Purple is yellow’s true complement, but that’s a little extreme for rooms. Because you want to keep the walls light, a dusty/wedgewood blue would go well or, for the warm range, try a rich, pale gold/mustard for the walls and whether blue or gold, accent in the red/burgundy would go well.
what color should i match the staircase?
the living room’s hard wood floor has a red monhagony color, the railing is English oak color, now i am replacing the carpet on the stairs with hardwood steps, should i choose the red monhagony or the English oak color of the railing which was previously painted by the builder. there is about 1meter away between the living room and the stairs going up the 2nd floor
Both those colors are going to be hard to match and it will be really obvious if you don’t get it perfect. And both being dark, they will make the stairwell very dark.
Maybe go for a neutral tone, maybe one of the textured carpets. They wear really well, and using a natural tone won’t distract from the beautiful floorboards or the existing wood.
whats the best colour i can paint my L shaped living room?
ok so i have an L shaped living room with dark oak laminated flooring i have gold and dark red long curtains and i have black sofas, i don’t want to paint all the walls the same colour i want maybe 2 walls one colour and the rest another colour, what do you think? thanks
Do a dark red wall on one of the walls without curtains, have the paint store color match your curtains. Then use a light tan that complements the red for the rest of the walls. The red wall will be your accent wall.
Idea for refinishing floor?
My husband has been telling me we need to buy new floors bc we have old urine stains from previous owner’s dog on red? oak hardwoods. Someone has already sanded them and coated with poly about 8 years ago. Then carpet was put on them. I pulled up carpet and here is what I did to different areas of floor. I’m running out of options.
1. Using handheld sander, sanded off poly over dark urine stain. Soaked with hyrdogen peroxide- no good. Stain still there. Too scared to try wood bleach at that time.
2. Sanded off poly and tried to disguise diff urine stain by applying Minwax ebony – not dark enough
3. Watered down white latex paint and slopped it right ontop of poly. Not a good idea.
4. Sanded down area with urine stain and paint stains. Tried Mineral spirits to remove paint- didn’t work.
Here are my final ideas. I have to use turpentine or something to get up old paint spills. Then I’m going to sand. Then apply dark dark gel stain and hope for the best. Especially over area where I already tried minwax.
If this does not work, I’m thinking of painting floors black and applying some sort of red maybe? tinted polyurethane to help them not look so black but give them dimension. Is this crazy?
For old stains, this WILL work. Lightly sand any poly first. Keep in mind, you will reach your goal, it just may take a day or three to get there. But, using the method below works, and is inexpensive, so long as you give it the time and patience necessary.
1. Blot the stain with a rag to make sure it is dry.
2. Clean the area of any other dirt or debris.
3. Test a portion of the stain with a small amount of hydrogen peroxide. Does it immediately lighten the stain? If so wipe clean immediately with warm wet cloth. If not, Let it soak in to see if you might need to dilute the peroxide with water if a single application does not lighten the stain (in order to let sit overnight). If this fails, You may need to apply several applications of undiluted peroxide to the spot.
4. Apply the peroxide to the entire stain, using the appropriate concentration.
5. Let the peroxide settle into the stain for several hours, or overnight for dark stains. The older, or darker the stain, overnight is the best option.
6. Allow the stained area to dry, and either rinse the area with warm water and allow it to dry to see if the stain is gone, or repeat the application if necessary until the dry, stained area matches the surrounding wood.
7. Once the stain is gone and the area has dried, apply the enzymatic solution, following the directions on the bottle. “Natures Miracle” is a great product for this type of application.
Help, what colour rug and curtains will match my red sofas?
I have Deep red chenille sofas A 3 seater and a 2 seater. My flooring is oak laminate and my furniture is beech effect. I really need to get a new rug and curtains but dont know what colour to go for. I cant go for anything too light as i have a dog and 2 children under the age of 6(hence going for red sofas). i really like Mocha colours and browns and minks but dont know if these will look odd in the room. My dining room table is in the room also which is beech effect with brown leather chairs, should i try to incorporate browns into the room to match this. I really dont know what to do! i did think about adding a red rug but thought that this might overpower the room as the sofas are quite a statement on their own. Please help! i really need advice on rugs and curtains please I have one window in the room and double doors looking out into the garden so the curtians are a main feature in the room. Thanks!
My living room is Chocolate Brown Sofa, Red & Lime Green scatter cushions & a Cream Rug….It’s my fave combination!
How do I know if floor installer did a good job?
I just had hardwood floors installed throughout my house. Since I live on a canal the installer suggested 2 1/4″ red oak since it would be more stable. The materials were delivered and sat in a pile in one room for about a week. The guy began the install and didn’t have the material to finish so he picked up some more let it sit in a pile overnight and installed it the next day. He finished the floor with Moisture Cure saying he put down 3 coats in 3 consecutive days. The job was completed 4 days ago. The finish on the stairs and railing is fantastic, looks great however the finish on the floors seems spotty. There are numerous spots where it appears to have no finish (used a semi-gloss) but you can feel it with your fingers. What would cause this and is there any way to fix it? I understand wood is a natural substance that has variations but I had wood floors my whole life and they never looked like this. I haven’t paid the guy yet and quite frankly don’t intend to pay him in full for a brand new job that looks like it’s 10 years old.
If you have any insight as to what would cause this and how to fix it I would greatly appreciate it.
Mark, that’s exactly what I plan to do. I’ll get two estimates and subtract the average from what I owe him.
sounds like he did OK except for the details to the finish, since you did not pay him in full get him to correct the issues mentioned.
Should I go with a light natural or dark color stain for my hardwood floors?
I am having hardwood floors installed in my living room and hallways. I have the old 1970′s wood paneling all around the living room starting from mid wall to floor. The color of the paneling is almost a coffee brown or reddish mahogany color. One wall in the living room is all brick which is where the fireplace is located. The brick wall has mixed colors like dark red,brown and sandy reddish brown colors. I also have neutral or light earth toned colored porcelain tile in the front door entryway. I am trying to decide what color stain I should go with on my solid hardwood floors. Should I go with a more natural or reddish coffee brown mahogany color stain to match the wood paneling. The type of wood and texture I’m going with is Red Oak #2 hand scraped. I am looking to do a antique rustic or distressed look. I don’t want my living room looking like a den or cave. HELP!!!! I need some advice!!!
Hi, I went with lighter oak floor as I did not want to be a slave to my dark floor. The dark floors show everything and require constant cleaning. I had painted my walls a rich brown color but repainted after a number of years as I found it too cave like. Hope this helps.
What type of tile for master bathroom remodel?
We have to gut our 15 year old master bathroom due to the fact that the tile was installed improperly. I want to upgrade/update it, but don’t plan on staying in this house more than 4 more years. I plan to reuse the red oak vanity but will replace the vanity top. All of the trim in the house is natural red oak. Have already replaced the knobs & light fixtures with satin nickel. Will replace the faucets with satin nickel as well. What would be the best choice for the vanity top (2 sinks) for resale? Do I need to use granite for resale purposes or would Corian be an option? Also there is a wall to wall mirror above the vanity. I keep reading that those are outdated and that I should replace it with 2 framed mirrors. What do you think–have to take the big mirror down anyhow. I plan to keep it as neutral as possible and just accent with rugs, towels, etc. We need to replace the tile in the shower, around the separate tub (re-using), and re-tile the floor. I love the natural stone, especially slate. Would 12×12 slates tiles be a good choice for the shower & floor–maybe accented with a mosaic border in the slate or recycled glass? I don’t want anything that is hard to clean. We will also replace the glass shower doors, repaint, etc. All of the fixtures are white. I am not into “fancy” and have a limited budget for this project, but I want it to look nice. Would appreciate any suggestions.
Natural stone or a real slate isn t a good idea if your planning to sell in a few years.You ve personalized it to much.Stone you won t get your money back from a sale.
Using a neutral color in a stone look on the floor and a simple but nice looking tile on the walls for a resale value.
Adding stripes or glass is also personalizing it to much. Stay simple but nice.
A 2 sink vanity is the best way to go in a master, using a granite or corian . Either will work although granite makes a beautiful top. If its a wall to wall mirror and you have 2 sinks, i d leave it.
Any questions you can e mal me through my avatar. GL
How to get a smooth finish on my wood project? Pics shown!?
I am using ¾” red oak I put 2 coats of Minwax stain to the way I like the color and 2 coats of Cabot gloss polyurethane so far I sanded with 400 between every coat. It’s VERY shiny and I don’t think I need another coat of polyurethane. Here is the link of the Pics.
How do I make my final coat nice and smooth? I looked around I am reading to use min oil with a fine sandpaper, or steel wood with a type of wax. What would be my best application? If you have any other suggestions it would be great. It’s a subwoofer box so it will be in the corner on the floor.
I have a lot of time and money into this project and I don’t want to screw up the finish.
Oak is a very open grained wood. If you had started with a sanding sealer for the first coat or two to fill the grain you would have gotten the smooth finish you are looking for with very few coats of Poly. About all you can do now is keep adding coats of Poly and sanding between until you get the smooth finish surface you are looking for. Don’t use 400 for the final coat but a 0000 steel wool or even notebook paper. I agree with split dog that the final luster will come from a wax coat buffed to a shine. Do not use an oil based top coat on Poly they don’t get along with each other. Your project looks great btw!
Okay, I chose my tile, thanks to you. Now can you help me with grout color & widths?
The tile is brown/gray/beige shadings and transitions onto light beige carpet into living room & red oak on dining room side.
I know you are supposed to carry colors from other rooms in to have flow. I am questioning the grout colors because the tile is darker than the other 2 floors. I am leaning toward a lighter color matching the beige in the tiles for sake of flow. If I seal it will I be able to keep it looking clean?
I know it is a matter of opinion, but would you go lighter or darker with the grout and how wide should the grout lines be and WHY?
If anyone really likes light grout or dark grout can you tell me why?
Thank You for sharing your experience.
I bought 12″ tiles, they aren’t dated are they? I think I will lay them diagonally, what do you think?
Hard to say 100% w/o seeing the tile but grout should be in the same color tones as the basic tile body. Having the grout to light or to dark the grout joint will jump out at you and thats what people will notice.White should never be used with a multi colored tile like yours.
Doing it on an diagonal always makes the tile job look nice.
Grout size is a personal thing, but over the years I ve recommended a 1/4″ grout line for people w/o a lot of tiling experience. Its big enough to work with , and help make up for the small inconsistency’s in any tile. Any smaller, unless your experienced, you can get into trouble easy doing it. I m talking 3/16″ or a hair smaller.
12 x12 won t be dated, especially laying them on a diagonal, it ll appear as though their closer to a 16×16.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Good begining to a story 2?
The night had come crawling into the streets of small lone town of Transity as the people found themselves confined safely indoors. For they know what lurks in the dark. The moon was shining in the sky, and the clouds where masking the stars from the sight of the people below the town, completely surrounded by a thick forest, had fallen asleep. The candle lit lamps where slightly lighting the streets as Emilie walked down the narrow pathway. The pitter patter of the rain and the tapping of the cobble stones where all that could be heard in the night. As she came to the top of the path, she saw a man; he was looking straight at her. He was wearing a completely black suit, a top hat and black leather gloves. He seemed to disappear into the mist as it came creeping through the night. She walked faster, as she approached her door, she looked left then right and in the corner of her eye, she seen him again. She opened the large oak door, locking it behind her she walked in. The room had two large book cases full of old dust ridden books, a big red rug on the floor and an old grandfather clock that had stopped ticking, against the back wall. She took off her scarf and gloves and closed the soft long curtains. She lifted her cream brown dress as she sat down on the chair beside the fireplace. The fire was lit, with a few logs gently roasting away on it. She put her hands out facing the fire getting all the heat she could. “You’re late” said a voice from behind her, Emilie looked back; standing in an apron was her mum. “I hurried home mother, but it gets darker faster nowadays” She replied. “Well, then you’ll have to come back earlier, or walk faster next time wont you?” She stood cross armed looking at Emilie. “Emilie, you know it’s dangerous at night in these parts, I just don’t want to see you getting hurt, or worse” she walked back into the kitchen
Thanks For The Compliment
Quite an improvement!
I think you meant lonely town? knock off “of transity” it’s too much. But if you need to mention the name, try it somewhere else..
the clouds masked the sight of the stars* flows
Love the new name.
Next few sentences are VERY well written, great visual.
Get rid of “left and right” That sentence could flow more.
dust ridden, i like that. But “dust ridden bookcase” would flow, you don’t have to mention there are books on them (;
A blood red rug concealed most of the floor, blood=vamps get it? :p
the granfather clock sounded from the old wooden walls
I’ll stop there, you’re writing improved so much with one edit! Keep doing this, the more you rephrase the more it flows.
hELP with room decor!!!!?
Ok I am 11 yrs old and i am going up 2 high school in september and i wanted my room looking grownup so i painted my walls (two hot pink and three lavander) and brought new furniture (all white with frosted glass bits on the frount) and my floor is red with tiny white flowers
I have in my room:
A White desk with built in shelves,
A dining room chair with red seat bit,
bed with cover to match walls and curtains,
hamster in yellow hamster cage,
oak set of drawers,
white clothes cupboard,
white set of drawers,
white bedside table,
3 shelves in pine,
purple flower painting on wall.
I have bits and bobs like a plate collection and a model fairy collection and a grey box tv that i dont know where to put!
I looked at the Feng Shui stuff and tryed to do that to my room but it still lookes like it is for a 9 yr old!
I cant repaint the walls but i think i might get a new carpet soon but what colour?
I also want my room to look a bit lighter without cost’s.
I cant buy anything major like new curtains or new lights or things but i might be able to get things like alarm clocks and pic frames.
If you have extra white christmas lights you can use those to put up to line the upper walls of your room or just over your bed either is fun and cute if you don’t you can just buy them from Target for cheap. For your new carpet stay neutral get white. For pictures get four medium or small pictures and arrange them into a square to hang on the wall thats aways cute. Hope this helps!
P.S How are you going into High School if you are only eleven years old?
what color to paint kitchen cupboards?
My kitchen is varily small – 14 feet long x 8 feet wide. I have a eating nook which the walls are a red/brick panel (looks like real brick), the rest of the walls are a deep chocolate brown/with white trim,the backsplash is a terracotta shiny tile, the floors are light oak laminate and there are 2 french doors. The cupboards are white – but my question is what color should I paint them ( I was thinking a tan)?
How about a darker orange not a neon type but a warm modern orange.Perhaps a matte finish.
On Kitchen Cabinets, is it modern to leave the frames and just get lighter colored doors?
I plan on removing this ugly wall paper, get lighter colored doors on the cabinets and hardware, try to get a built in table, recessed lights and under cabinet lights, different counter tops, my floor is tiled somewhere between tan and white, I have dark cabients (oak, they are solid). I have two window next to each other, with a shorter counter height and 3 cabinets below it, thinking of getting something done there too, like a big or 2 end cabinets to store some appliances and built on table, I plan either soft paint or something like green, red, or blueish or maybe yellow for the walls, and a white ceiling celing.
No I would keep your cabinets all the same color. That way your kitchen will look bigger. If the finish on your cabinets is alright just lightly sand them and put on a few coats of polyurethane.. Or lightly sand them an stain the color they are now or close to the color they are now.
2 red oak flooring