Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    Can I install a wood floor over ceramic tile?
    I want to install a wood floor and a carpet over ceramic tile without breaking it. Is it possible? If so, please tell me how to do it in detail. I am not goin to do it myself. I just want to know if it is possible and how to do it.

    Thank you for your time.

    • ANSWER:
      I have heard that it is possible, of course, you have to determine whether the tile is smooth enough to do this.

      Installing Engineered Hardwood Floors Over Existing Floor Coverings
      When installing hardwood floors over an existing floor covering, the rule of thumb is that the new hardwood floors installation is only as good as the bond between the existing sub floor and the existing flooring material. Installing hardwood floors over an existing floor that is not bonded correctly to the sub floor will result in the deficiencies transferring to the new hardwood floor.

      Engineered hardwood floors, as well as certain solid hardwood floors can be glued directly down to concrete. Always follow manufacturers recommended guidelines for acceptable methods of installation. Certain steps must be followed prior to the installation, in order to ensure an acceptable surface for adhesion, if the concrete slab is sealed, painted or has any other surface treatment. These types of floor finishes must be removed, with the use of a sander, prior to installation, as failure to prepare the concrete sub floor will result in a weak bond between the sub floor and new hardwood floor.

      Engineered hardwood floors can be installed over the following existing flooring materials: (always refer to manufacturers guidelines, as certain manufacturers will not warrant their floors when installed over certain existing flooring materials.)

      Ceramic, Marble, Slate, Terrazzo, Vinyl
      When gluing a hardwood floor to one of the above existing flooring materials, it is important to adhere to the following guidelines. All grout joints exceeding 3/16” must be filled with a leveling compound that contains a latex additive and that is recommended for such use, which is available from most hardware stores. The surface must be abraded in order to create a suitable surface for bond adhesion. Loose tiles must be re-attached to the sub floor and any holes must be filled in. Remember to remove all sealers and surface treatments, and always check for adequate adhesive bonding by testing a piece or two.
      Existing Engineered Wood Flooring
      New hardwood floors can be installed over existing engineered hardwood floors using the following methods of installation: Staple, Nail or Glue-Down. Existing engineered wood flooring must be well bonded to the sub floor . Re-attach any loose boards and replace warped boards. When gluing over existing wood flooring of any thickness, the finishing materials must be abraded or removed to ensure an adequate adhesive bond. Sweep and clean the floor well, but don’t use water. Do not install the new floor to the old floor in the same direction. Install at a right angle or on a diagonal. If the preferred direction is in the same direction as the old floor, overlay the old floor with 3/8″ to 1/2″ plywood.

      When flooring is to be nailed or stapled to the existing engineered wood floor, the existing engineered wood floor must be a minimum of 3/8? thick and must be installed over an approved wood or wood composite underpayment that has been properly fastened. When installing over existing engineered flooring that is glued to concrete, the minimum thickness of the flooring must be 1/2? to allow for the length of the fastener.

      Remember to always consult the manufacturers recommended guidelines, as failure to adhere to the guidelines will result in the voidance of the manufacturer’s warranty.

  2. QUESTION:
    How can i say that hardwood and engineered wood floors are really different with each other?

    • ANSWER:
      Engineered wood floors are made of a plywood with a layer of solid wood on top. These floors allow wood to go where traditionally it could not like a cement sub floors or a sub grade level of your home.

      Engineered wood is sometimes called a remodel floor because it is more often thinner then solid hardwood. This allows a homeowner to more easily transition between floors that are close in height. They can be refinished, although depending on the thickness of the wood top, it may need to be professionally done. These floors are almost always prefinished. You will find engineered wood floors that are glue down, floating, and staple down.

      Another benefit of engineered wood is cost. Some more exotic species of wood are very expensive. Engineered woods allow manufactures ways to produce floors in a more budget friendly floor.

      Solid hardwood floors have time on their side. The tongue and grove style boards have been used in homes for generations. The live expectancy of the floor is 100 + years with proper care. They allow for much easier repair then a laminate or engineered wood and can be easily refinished my an informed DIY.
      In the past, you only saw solid would in floors 3/4″ or even thicker. Today though, there are solid wood floors as thin as 3/8″ which allow it to go into an area a ticker floor couldn’t.

      You can find solid wood unfinished if you wish to stain it and polyurethane it yourself or prefinished for quicker installation.

      Engineered wood floors are made like plywood. They are made up of several layers, mostly of a less expensive wood. The top layer is made of hardwood.

      Solid hardwood floors, on the other hand are solid hardwood the entire thickness.

      An engineered wood floor may have only 1/16″ or so of hardwood on the surface, where a solid wood floor might be a 1/2″ or more.

      Engineered wood tends to be more stable – it is less likely to move or warp with changes in humidity or temperature. This is because the different layers of wood have the grain running in different directions. They are a good choice over a cement slab floor, and are frequently installed by being glued down.

  3. QUESTION:
    what is the difference between a pergo or laminate wood flooring?

    • ANSWER:
      Pergo is a laminate. A laminate consists of a body of MDF or HDF type fiber board. A laminate wood floor is several layers ( usually 3) of real wood cross grained ( similar to a ply wood). Thicker than a laminate which on average is between 6 and 8 mm. A wood laminate is generally 3/8 ths to 5/8th inches thick. Most often called an engineered wood. These can be glued, stapled, or some are a flooring floor system where as a Pergo or a laminate is always a free floating floor.. any flooring questions you can e mail me through my avatar.. GL

  4. QUESTION:
    what is a floating hardwood floor?
    I’ve got 4 boxes of Hoboken Hard wood flooring from a few yers ago.
    I am unsure if it is a floating floor if if it needs glued.
    I do not want to glue it down as it may need to come back up.
    I would like to kow how to tell if it is a floater or a gluer.

    • ANSWER:
      To tell if its a locking floor system and thus a floating floor the tongue that sticks out will be odd shaped and not completely round and smooth like hard wood.
      True hard wood will be 3/4″ thick . A floating floor will be 1/2″ or thinner.
      There are engineered woods that are thin too ( 3/8 to 5/8″ thick)so they too can have a smooth tongue.
      Look for the tongue and you can tell. True ( 3/4″ thick) hard woods can only be nailed or stapled down.
      All others need to be determined as to what they are whether you lock them and have a floating floor or glue or stale an engineered wood,
      Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar . GL

  5. QUESTION:
    How to secure hardwood?
    I’m putting 3/4″ hardwood down in my house. I’ve screwed down 3/8″ plywood to the original underflooring, but I’d rather use glue than a nailer to lay the hardwood. Is this practical and, if so, what type of glue should I use?

    • ANSWER:
      You cannot just glue 3/4″ hardwood down There is always just enough natural bows in 3/4 to make it impossible to just glue down. You must nail or staple it down.This will take out any natural bows in 3/4′ hard wood. You can glue and nail just not glue it alone.
      The thinner engineered wood you can just glue down if you d like.
      Since you ve added to the sub floor you must now use a longer staple or cleat ( nail) to go into the sub floor as far as possible.
      Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

  6. QUESTION:
    Engineered Hardwood Question?
    Hi, We are planning to get Engineered Hardwood in our home (Family and bedrooms). I was wondering if glue or nails is the way to go. Both areas have sub floors. I have read that Engg Hardwood floors may be more noisy. How can we prevent that.
    Thank you
    During my research about Engineered Hard Wood, I came across an article that said that the layers of wood are glued together and the glue releases VOC’s into the home environment which is bad for health. How concerned should I be about this.

    • ANSWER:
      Of course fix any sub floor squeaks first. This is the main cause of all floor noise.
      The absolute best is the nail ( actually a staple) on the thinner engineered floors such as 5/16 and 3/8″ thick flooring and glue. But to do either or, do glue since most noise caused by wood floors is nails( staples) working loose over the years.
      Glue needs no under layment and you must install either a felt or red rosin paper according to manufacturers spec if you go the nail down route.
      Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

  7. QUESTION:
    oak wood planks installing tongue and groove ?
    tongue and groove wood planks has a blue finish on one side plain oak on other side what is needed if anything underneath floor, to install?

    • ANSWER:
      Your discription doesn t say if its a full 3/4″ T &G or a thinner engineered T&G hard wood or a laminate floating floor. Each will take a different under layment for a different reason. 3/4″ will need a 15# felt and nailed down. Your 3/8″1/2″and 5/8″ engineered wood can be stapled/nailed/or glued. Some are floating floors which need a special foam underlayment to allow it to float. And then theres the t&g locking floating laminate floors which all need a foam underlayment aside from the few that have the underlayment attached to the board. Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar. GL

  8. QUESTION:
    Laying Solid oak flooring?
    Im laying solid oak flooring in my living room, but there are 2 ways im looking at doing it, glueing it onto the chipboard floor which is already down, or secret nailling them, i would rather glue them down but when the expand and shrink what will happen because its glued down.
    The oak floor that i have is tongue and groove style, but on a dvd i got from B&Q it says secret nail them or glue them straight onto the original wood sub floor and make sure i dont get any in the grooves around the edges.

    • ANSWER:
      What thickness you have? It must be 3/8 or 1/2 inch engineered wood to be glued down. The new glue will allow for expansion and contraction since they never “100%”: harden. You try not to get any in the groves since this wont allow a tight fit when coming together.. I always have 2 trowels.. One soaking after it gets to much glue built up on it that I don t get proper coverage. Get the proper trowel for your wood it s a common trowel but get the glue and the wood manufactures specs. You cannoy glue 3/4 T&G wood it must be nailed.3/8 engineered wood takes a special “nail” gun ( it s actually staples) it will work on both woods and you can use the 3/4 thick wood floor gun on the 1/2 inch but check to be sure.
      You say solid wood but solid wood won t come in the thinner style .So hope we re on the same wave length.. e mail me if any questions GL

  9. QUESTION:
    I am getting ready to install 3/8 inch finished hardwood floors. what is best to put under it?
    battlefield by floorcraft spanish hickory

    • ANSWER:
      If your current sub floor is smooth ans flat usually nothing is needed other than a rosin paper if your engineered wood is a staple down product. If you have a floating floor system just use the normal underlayment used for this or a laminate. If your floor isn t a floating system and your gluing it down, most times nothing is needed as long as the floor is flat and clean.
      If its dirty and need to bond to some thing good, just a 1/4 ” luan will work. If you want to stiffen up the floor and have the clearance, you can get 3/8 ths up in thickness.
      Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar, I ve install a few 1000 s/f of engineered wood. GL

  10. QUESTION:
    DIY wood flooring in R-V?
    would like to install wood fooring in a 36′ 5th wheel. with one slide that would need flooring also. Thanks

    • ANSWER:
      As long as you have a solid sub-floor, it should work. Chip board isn’t too good, so if that’s what you got, replace with plywood, or OSB meant for subflooring. You might want to go with 3/8″ engineered flooring, to keep the weight down (more moisture stable too), and a glue-down or stapled installation may be better than nail-down (look under the subfloor first for location of plumbing, wiring, framing members, to see if nails/staples will hit anything).

      Most floor installations in houses run boards parallel to the length of the room–if you do it the other way, it’s more work, but will make the space in your RV seem wider. This also puts the joints parallel to the direction of light from most of the windows, which helps conceal them on engineered or laminate flooring. Pay attention to the existing baseboard detail, and think about how you’ll put new base over the hardwood.

  11. QUESTION:
    Another flooring question.?
    I have 3/4″ thick by 3″ tongue & groove boards for my kitchen sub-floor. It’s got to be more than 40 years old but its still very solid. We’ve redone the kitchen entirely and I know I should be laying down some 1/4″ luan over the sub-floor to keep the individual boards tied together since the new finished floor will be running in the same direction. My question is, what is the thinnest solid wood floor do you think I could lay over all this? I was thinking 3/4″ but if I can go thinner that would help me deal with the rise from the dining room to the kitchen. Can I go with a 3/8″ or 1/2″ thick flooring? We’ve been looking at Bellawood’s Brazilian Cherry or Teak solid flooring.
    The house was built in 1928 and is on a raised foundation if it helps to know.
    Thanks
    So it won’t matter that my new finished floor will be running the same direction as my 3″ wide sublfoor boards?

    • ANSWER:
      By all means you can go thinner. You can go w/ the 3/8 or 1/2 inch. There called engineered wood floors. Real good stuff since they come from the factory very straight. You can glue or staple this floors don t since there so straight.Takes a special staple gun on the 3/8 (which you can rent) Some 1/2 in you can use the full size staple gun that 3/4 uses. Check w/ manufacturer on there recommendation. One bad point on some of these you can t resand down and refinish like a full 3/4 board.Most come now w/ an aluminum oxide finish that is very tough. But its wood you still can scratch it w/ a pebble in the tennis shoe.( As you can w/ any wood).I love the engineered wood it goes together so much easier than 3/4 in Both woods have good and bad points GL

  12. QUESTION:
    Flooring staple, cleat or nail?
    I’ll be putting down 1/2″ thick (5″ wide) Brazilian Teak engineered flooring from Virginia Millworks. It’s going down on 3/8″ plywood that’s on a 3/4″ thick plank sub-floor. Should I be using staples or nails to fasten the new flooring? I’m leaning towards staples since they have a glue that’s activated when they penetrate the wood. And I think with the extra thickness of the 3/8″ plywood, I should be using at least 1 3/4″ long fasteners. Correct me if I’m wrong there. I’ve already been steered wrong by the supplier and they didn’t even know about the staples having a glue on them, so I won’t be going to them for advice on this.

    Thanks
    Yes, I will be blind nailing (or stapling) them with the angled power nailer. And we are going with the engineered product because it’s the only Brazilian Teak in a distressed (or hand scraped) look that is thin enough to help with our height issues into the next room. I don’t know anyone that can re-finish a distressed floor anyway. I think the advice so far is confirming my thoughts about the stapling. Blind nailing, and the fact the staple glue will be beneath the finished surface should prevent any discoloration.

    • ANSWER:
      I’m not sure that the answer above is correct: I’m assuming that you will be “blind nailing” the floor and that the fasteners won’t be visible – except for about the first 12” off of the wall where an angle nailer won’t work.

      I agree that the longer fastener (staple) is preferred, as it will penetrate both the plywood and the substrate beneath it. In fact, you will have to use both types of fasteners because as mentioned above you will have to face nail a portion of the material near the walls.

  13. QUESTION:
    anyone tried a floor nailer?
    im going to lay a solid wood floor shortly and im thinking of nailing it to 1/2″ ply rather than glue it together which ive done before but found it sounds like creaking and cracking in places when you walk on it. ive never used a floor nailer before and 1 are these easy to use 2 is it quicker and easier to do it this way ?

    • ANSWER:
      If your going to put down 1/2 in ply atop your 3/4, You ll need to get a longer nail/staple that comes normally w/ nailers. You can get them in a staple version that most wood manufacturers will allow w/ there wood. You don t say if your doing 3/4 , 1/2 , or 3/8 wood flooring Only the 3/4 is classifies as solid wood but I have heard people saying different. The last 2 are engineered and you can only use the stand up nailer/ stapler w/ the 1/2 in The 3/8 is a special gun / stapler.Like the others said an air nailer/ stapler is the best way to go. Check manufacturers recommendation on felt or rosin paper, if your using a pre finished wood.To get to your main questions yes much quicker and easy to use once you get the knack. Any questions you can e mail me GL

  14. QUESTION:
    Newly installed solid Brazilian Teak hardwood floor – GAPS between the boards?
    In August 2007 we had 800 sq feet of solid Brazilian Teak hardwood floors installed in our condo. The floors were glued down to concrete and the planks are 3″ wide and 3/8″ thick made by Bellawood (Lumber Liquidators). While it was being installed, I noticed large gaps between some of the boards and told the installers that I was not happy. The installers told me that since they were working with natural, solid wood (not engineered) that there was variation between the boards and that the gaps were inevitable. They agreed to fill some of the big gaps with wood putty, but I was still not happy. Some of the gaps were so big that I could fit three quarters inside them. Most of them I could only stick one quarter inside. Last winter and this winter, I have spent all my free time filling the gaps with minwax wood putty (non-hardening). After several months, the wood putty dries out and cracks and needs to be filled again. My questions are 1) Did my installers just do a bad job, as I suspect, or is it true this is normal? (I don’t know anyone else with natural wood floors) and 2) what can I do now besides spending all my time filling gaps with wood putty to make my floors look better? (Besides suing/complaining to the installer because it’s too late for that). Thanks for your help.

    These are pictures of the floors with the gaps filled. I didn’t take any before I filled them.

    http://images23.fotki.com/v869/photos/7/781937/7218051/P2070887-vi.jpg

    http://images46.fotki.com/v1441/photos/7/781937/7218051/P2070895-vi.jpg

    http://images46.fotki.com/v1441/photos/7/781937/7218051/P2070889-vi.jpg

    • ANSWER:
      Well this is a new one to me.. I ve never seen a 3/8 wood that ISN T an engineered wood .. And since I can see warpage in the wood I m surprised That they would try and put it in since a wood like this I d think would need nailing ( or a stapled down ) There s a special staple gun to do this .. This will draw the wood together when stapled to provide a tighter joint.. Was this a pre finished wood? I m really curious..In one of your picts I noticed a big no no and that was a joint right across from another. If you have any spare wood to take some additional picts I d like to see some side views and to know if it was prefinished or finished on site. If it was finished on site I have some choice words for an installation like that.. E mail me I d like to know a few things and I ll give you my e mail so you can send additional picts of spare wood if you have them.. Go thru my avatar to e mail me GL

  15. QUESTION:
    Hardwood Flooring – Subfloor Preparation?
    Looking for some advice on preparing a subfloor for a hardwood flooring install. I plan to lay 3/8″ x 3″ (solid; not engineered) Bolivian Rosewood over a crawl space. I have ripped out all the carpet, padding, tack strips, pad staples, and base boards. Now I am left with an 3/4″ OSB subfloor.

    The OSB is solid and plenty thick for the staples to bite, but its surface is really rough (chips, various dings and such from construction). I am worried the flooring won’t lay properly and show the defects in the OSB surface. I have been told that OSB is not a good substrate for nailed down floors and that I should sheath the OSB with a 3/8″ plywood to create a flat surface. Before going through the expense and effort of laying plywood I wanted to make sure this is an appropriate approach. I plan to install a vapor barrier, most likely something like ProlaymentSB (pad/vapor barrier) if that has any bearing.

    Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      i cant see why you cant lay hardwood flooring on osb ?
      i would however. use liquid nail to help glue the wood plus nailing . the vapor barrier is a good idea,
      just check for a good level before you start to applying the wood

  16. QUESTION:
    Do we need a dehumidifier for our hardwood floors?
    This past January, my husband installed BellaWood Brazilian Cherry 3/8″ thick, 2 1/4″ wide hardwood floors on our main floor. The basement and upstairs are both carpeted. Anyway, early this spring, we noticed one of the boards buckling. My husband cut it out and tried to fix it but now it doesn’t look so great. Anyway, now we are starting to notice some slight buckling in other places. We thought it could be humidity issues so we turned our air conditioning up ( We used to have it at 85 when gone and 78 when home) to 75 all the time. We purchased a thermometer when a humidity reader and during the day the humidity can fluctuate between 47 and 52%. Should we get a humidifier and try to lower the humidity to 40 or 45%? We don’t want to spend a lot of money if that isn’t going to work.

    • ANSWER:
      You may need a dehumidifier but those % sounds about right.. Caal or check w/ the place you bought it and they ll be able to give (or get) the specs from bella on what the average humidity should be kept at for any particular wood..Since you have an engineered wood , did you staple(nail) it down or glue it? You put the right amount of staples in it? You need staples every 6 inches for most eng wood and a staple w/in 3 inches of any ends..Hope this was of some help GL

  17. QUESTION:
    what is engineered flooring?

    • ANSWER:
      Engineered wood, or a flooring, is a structurally strong wood made up of 3 or 5 plys ( usually 3) of wood.
      Each ply is crossed and glued to each other. The top ply usually made of the wood or choice such as oak, maple, cherry etc.
      The pcs themselves are mill to exacting standards or engineered to precise standards. Usually thinner than solid wood, anywhere from a 1/4″ to 5/8″ thick.
      These flooring are made to be installed in several ways to fit many needs, such as stapled, glued,or made into a floating floor system.
      Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

  18. QUESTION:
    Is Laminated Wood a good material for flooring a 2nd floor house?
    We plan to do our floors on our newly purchased pre-owned house. We wanted a hardwood flooring on the 2nd floor, but also want go cheaper. Is Laminated wood a good materials or should we just spend the extra bucks for a hardwood? Also, is Laminated wood shinier than hardwood? We want something shiny looking floors as well. :)

    House is located on Las Vegas, NV I’m not sure if there is going to be issues with hot weather area.

    The Ground floor is about 755 sq ft.

    • ANSWER:
      Are you talking engineered laminated wood or a laminate?Engineered wood is thinner than hardwood. Generally 3/8 and 1/2 inch.. Can be glued or stapled.Comes in a wide variety shiney / dull and almost any species of wood you want..Very durable and upkeep is just like real wood.Geared a bit more to DIY. A laminate is generally cheaper and easy to install and great for kids area.. Let them grow thru it and replace with what you want in a few years.. 1 downfall its usually a dull finish on it so it won t show spots as easy.. Real 3/4 inch hardwod comes all over the place.. 2 , 3 ,4 ,5 ,6, inch boards mix and match(every other row) as long as its the same maker..Harder to care for.Like engineered wood prices vary from 3 $ a s/f and UP Hope this is some insight GL

  19. QUESTION:
    Tips & tricks for Installing a Laminate Flooring in a Condo’ s unit’?
    I bought laminate, bought it seems difficult, please provide few tips suchs as Cuting, Corners, Glue, Sub-floor, Padding, and also…
    BISCUITS D!
    The instruction book NOT saying that AFTER installing Laminates, these Biscuits should BE REMOVED or they will REMINE under the Base Board
    AND
    What type of Base board is good for condo, there are woods [expensive] and other material, please identify advantages, and disavantages of each

    YOUR Good answer will remain forever in the Internet, in which BILLIONS of people around the World would use them and Would say Thank You to you; so please concider that you are NOT addressing ME, in fact you are giving tips to the people of the World!

    • ANSWER:
      Installing a laminate snap together floor usually does not require gluing. The early type of engineered floors did require glue but most manufactured today do not.

      Start with the sub floor. It needs to be level and free of any nails or staples sticking up. If there are any squeaks you need to screw that part of the sub floor down. In a condo the sub floor is typically cement. With a cement floor you need to make sure it is clean and free of any foreign substances.

      It is best to remove any existing baseboards as well as shoe (shoe looks like 1/4 round, longer on one side). Door jams may need to be undercut. To undercut door jams either rent an undercut saw or use a flat flexible pull saw. Place a scrap piece of flooring next to the jam and cut away so the new floor when installed will slip under the jam.

      The biscuits you refer to, are spacers that need to be placed against the wall where you start. The space required will vary slightly from one manufacturer to another (1/4″ to 1/2″), but rule of thumb is 3/8″. The reason you need to leave a space all around the floor is it is a floating floor and will expand and contract as a unit. You need to make sure you leave a gap on all side of the floor. You will need to remove the spacers before you reinstall the baseboard and shoe.

      Some floors today come with a foam back and others require a foam underlayment. Follow the manufacturers directions.

      As for cutting a good table saw and a good chop (or miter) saw will be helpful. You may also want a hand held scroll (or jig) saw for any odd shaped cuts or inside corner cuts. The most difficult pieces to put in will be the ones that go through doorways. For these pieces you may not be able to snap them in the same way as the rest of the floor because they need to slid under the jam. To force these pieces into place you may want to use a piece of scrap flooring and attach it to the piece you are installing and hit it with a mallet to force the piece onto the piece it connects to.

      When you come to the finishing wall you may need to pry these pieces onto the other pieces. Make sure you place a piece of scrap wood against the wall and pry against the scrap so you do not damage the wall.

      When you go to replace the floor trim if you want new trim, make sure you consider adding shoe at this time. Especially if your floor is at all unlevel. Show will bend and conform to the flor and hide any gaps you may have.

  20. QUESTION:
    Leveling Subfloor Before Putting another Plywood layer over it?
    My kitchen has 1/2 inch plywood over the joists. It is not tongue and groove. I want to add a 5/8 layer of tongue and groove plywood over the 1/2/ inch plywood. I plan on screwing it down and want to ensure the 5/8 layer is as level as I can can get it before putting a hardwood layer (or floating engineered layer) over top of it.

    The issue I have is that there are dips on the 1/2 inch layer of plywood which dip up to 3/16. An example of this is a spot where there are 3 joists 16 inches apart. The middle joist is 3/16 lower than the other two joists (on each side) which are level. I do not want to screw the 5/8 layer on top of that for fear I will still get the same un-level area.

    I have seen a few options here and am wondering if anyone can give some pros or cons on one or all of them.
    – One option I have seen is to use black felt to build up the area. I would likely staple it in layers into the dip to bring the layer up. Then put the 5/8 T&G over it.
    – Another would be to use some cheap peel and stick tiles to bring the layer level. Then put the 5/8 T&G over it
    – Another option would be to use some self-leveling cement and bring the layer up – the concern is that it would likely break when I screw through it. Although I am not sure if that is an issue as the 5/8 plywood will be on top of it and the level should hold true.

    Please provide some comments and any other suggestions you may have.

    Thanks
    Jack
    All good unique suggestions so far.
    I was originally going to rip the floor up and put some 3/4 or 1″ tongue and groove. But this floor also goes into another small laundry room and hall with a wall dividing it. I would have to cut around all that. Definitely the most proper fix.

    There were 2 layers of 1/2″ particle board on top of the 1/2 inch plywood. This was actually a very sturdy floor and it had no squeaks. But there were low spots.

    I would have like to do some work from under the floor, but the basement has a drywall ceiling so I am not planning to rip that out.

    I like the wood putty idea, I know if dries very hard and would bring up the few low spots, but I bet I would need a gallon of it as I have a 2x 3 area I would need to bring up 1/8 inch.

    I had thought about buying some thin veneer type of wood and gluing it down and then sanding it level?

    Still open to suggestion.

    • ANSWER:
      fill te area with wood putty, smooth it out, let it dry for 2 days sand it level with the other parts of the floor, then add the 5/8 plywood,


3 8 engineered wood flooring stapler