How many of us have the hope to have hardwood floors in our house instead of the awful looking carpet that we have had to endure for ages? This is a dream of many – but so few discover it because they are scared to pay the high price for it. The better substitute to the real thing is to buy something that appears and similar to it – but is not as costly.

Engineered hardwood floors are a an exceptional alternative to anybody who desires to save money when buying different flooring. This type of flooring is accessible in unique tones and is constructed to be more tough and stable then the proper thing. It might not be waterproof – but it can hold up against heat and moisture easier than many floors thanks to its several core layers.

As with any kind of flooring that you have put in in your house you need to understand how to maintain it and keep it looking brand new every day. Cleaning engineered hardwood floors can be difficult and should be done cautiously. Numerous individuals will handle them like they are the real thing and will employ the standard hardwood cleaners on them.

Many of these wood cleansers should not be used because they have particular ingredients that will get rid of the finish from the surface of the floors. This finish is rather critical because it will screen the floor and keep its glow from fading. You will only have the ability to refinish these kinds of floors a few times before replacing them.

The simplest solution you are able to use is warm water blended with a few drops of household cleansers. This is gentle to utilise on the floors to remove dirt and stains. Just remember that you will want to dry it as soon as you are finished. These engineered hardwood floors are not waterproof. When large quantities of water is left on it for long periods of time it will soak it up and enlarge.

About the author Learn how you can Install Engineered Hardwood Floors and how to Clean them. There are several Engineered Floor Types to choose from.

Source: http://www.articlesalley.com/article.detail.php/89235/201/Home_Improvement/Home/27/Learn_How_To_Maintain_Engineered_Hardwood_Floors
Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
Can anyone tell me how to do a glue-down installation of Tarkett engineered wood flooring?
The web site says the the interlocking wood floor cannot be installed as a floating floor if over 250 sq meters. But, the Tarkett website is very poor and does not give good information. Also, if doing a floating floor in the engineered flooring, how should I handle the “hard points” such as stair nose to floor interface?

ANSWER:
I used Tarkett vinyl tile about a decade or so ago in an apartment. it wasn’t cut exactly right so the tiles creeped as they were installed and didn’t wear worth a damn and had to quickly be replaced. Just a bit of a warning. Good luck with it.

QUESTION:
can anyone recommend a brand of heating to use under engineered wood flooring?
we are installing bamboo flooring (engineered wood-click and lock) and would like areas to be heated over our concrete slab. anyone have any recommendations??? any experience with this?? thanks!
matting that could be unrolled between the insulation and the flooring ??? or any recommendations??

I have concrete slab right now with carpeting that will be removed. (and laminate in the kitchen that is prob glued to the concrete directly – the insulation and flooring will probably go over the laminate without being lifted.

ANSWER:
Sun Touch electric system is the only way I know to do this., w/o tearing out a lot of concrete and adding a boiler system. You ll have to lay the system you want out ( or more than one mat). They come in several different sizes. After they are rolled out into place you ll have to pour a self leveling compound over it all to make the whole area flat .
Then after the compound dries for several days ( it dries to walk on in 6/12 hrs or so) you can lay the wood .
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. I ve attended several installation seminars as well as installed several 100,000 s/f. GL

QUESTION:
Are minute gaps in laying engineered wood flooring on a slab?
I am laying 5 1/2 inch Thomasville Mahagony Engineered wood flooring. Occasionally I do not get them as snug as I would like, but most of the time it is a nice fit. Is this ok, or should I panic?

ANSWER:
the gaps should be there to allow for expansion, and contraction of the slab

QUESTION:
Should I pay for warranty on engineered wood flooring?
I have an opportunity to purchase cabin quality engineered wood flooring that comes without any warranty by manufacturer. I’m tempted because I can purchase this flooring for about 700.00 less than 1st quality with 30 year warranty. Is the warranty worth it? Has anyone had the experience of filing a claim against a wood floor warranty?

ANSWER:
You’ll probably replace that floor before you would need the warranty. I have never had an experience with filing a claim. But have worked for many attorneys and if you are going to get a warranty make sure you read it before you buy it. It might not cover what you would think it would

QUESTION:
When installing engineered wood flooring do you lay it down before or after installing a shower/bathtub?
I’m re-doing my bathroom and am wondering if I should lay the engineered wood flooring down under the new shower/bathtub, or should I install that first and lay the flooring around it?

ANSWER:
After

QUESTION:
What do you think of 3 strip engineered wood flooring?
hardwood flooring is not so popular in my country but I like it , I went to store today and found 3 strip engineered wood flooring ..will it look as good as the plank wood flooring ? or it’ll look cheaper ?

ANSWER:
Although some of these look better than others , you ll be able to tell it comes in a 3 strip pc.
You ll be able to see the seams a bit. Some do go together better than others and are not as noticeable but again some look real bad.
The over all top look plays a part in the final look also.
But the bottom line is that it won t look quite as good as the single stripe. GL

QUESTION:
I am an allergy sufferer.Which engineered wood flooring is best? ?
i know engineered flooring uses adhesives and this worries me. i think hardwood installation over conrete would be complicated (we live in a condo) and we were advised to choose engineered wood. thank you!

ANSWER:
You can use the type of laminate that snaps together. This is installed over a pad that is rolled over the concrete. There would be no adhesive required. If you do go with the type of engineered wood that is glued together, the glue used is basically the same as yellow carpenters glue. The formula is slightly different, but for the most part it is very similar. The glue dries quickly, and once it’s dry it should be sealed enough to not cause allergy issues. Hope this helps.

QUESTION:
How to install 3/4″ engineered wood flooring?
Is it acceptable to glue 3/4″ engineered wood flooring to a concrete floor?

ANSWER:
To be honest I ve never seen a 3/4 engineered hardwood. 3/8s and 1/2 inch yes, both of those which can be nailed or glued. Glue only on cement of course. You ll have to get w/ the manufacture and see what they say to do. E mail me back thru my avatar what you find out for sure, I m always eager to learn something new GL
P S , if you do find it to be gluable, e mail me and I l give some pointers.Have you checked your cement for any moisture/ hydrostatic pressure?

QUESTION:
I’m laying engineered wood flooring on concrete floor – can I use plyboard to flatten floor out?
I’d like to lay engineered wooden flooring in my 3rd floor flat. Lifted up old laminate flooring and concrete floor is not even / flat (up to 7mm difference in parts) – there is a bulge running through centre of floor. Area is around 40sq in total. Thinking of using plyboard to raise rest of room up to bulge level and perhaps self leveling in the centre to even out. Any thoughts please? Thanks

ANSWER:
That is a tough question . I am in two minds on this one.
It depends on the variation between the highs and lows etc
I am tempted to suggest that you grind the floor. It might help
Using a self levelling compound with the grinding is the way i would go. The ply wood bit is really hard. I do not actually recommend that one. Also would raise the floor levels as well.

QUESTION:
What is the potential problem of the engineered wood flooring for basement?
I plan to take away the carpet in my basement, and install some other type of flooring. A friend recommended the engineering hardwood flooring. Yet I heard that a little moisture would be disastrous for this type of flooring. Is there a better option out there?

ANSWER:
you need to do a moisture test on your floor first to see if it is feasible first you get a gallon Ziploc and tape (duct tape) it to an exposed area of concrete leave it for 24 hrs if moisture collects on the bag you need another flooring. you could go with laminate and get a moisture barrier padding to go under it, or there is a flexible floating PVC flooring out now the more pricier ones have texture that feels like wood and looks so real i have seen people actually touch it before they believed it wasn’t

QUESTION:
how to join new engineered wood flooring to existing rooms with carpet without using transition strips?
the wood flooring will be installed in a hallway which has six rooms opening off of it, all the rooms have carpet. I don’t want to use transition strips where the doorways are. I have seen carpet joined to other type floors simular to this where the carpet appears to have been rolled under at the transition and secured. is this done with some type carpet tact strip that dosen’t have the little nails sticking up? all flooring is over a concrete slab.

ANSWER:
Install tack strip 1/4″ from the hardwood, re-stretch the carpet to the new strip, re-trim it, and set it with a stair tool. Use a masonry bit and aluminum masonry nails to secure the tack strip. To do it correctly the carpet needs to be re-stretched, so if you don’t have acess to a power stretcher, best to call a pro. You can’t use the turn & tack method on concrete unless you install a wood backer to tack it to, which would be as much trouble as using tack strip. You would also need a re-stretch with the turn & tack method.

QUESTION:
How do you get slight indentations out of engineered wood flooring?
Moved the fridge and you can see the marks in the floor. Slightly indented. Can you make the indentations less visible? Can they be steamed out ie: expanding the wood so it is level again?

ANSWER:
Well I have a wood floor, so I don’t know how different it is from yours. >> You can use a repair such as Bona Kemi Parkett Repair. or you can place water on the dent and apply mild heat (with an iron) to the spot to get it to raise. It sometimes works.

QUESTION:
which is the best choice of wood for engineered flooring?
I would like to remove my carpet and get a nice tough wood flooring.

ANSWER:
If you install engineered hardwood the species of wood you use will make no difference as to its durability. Engineered is always prefinished and it is the durability of the finish, and the type of installation method that you need to be concerned with.
Engineered hardwood can be nailed or stapled, glued to the subfloor, glued together and floated, or simply locked together and floated with no fasteners or glue at all.
Of these methods it is best to always fasten the floor down. Nail, staple, or glue the boards to the floor and you will have a much more solid feel, and the boards will be much less likely to separate.
Of the floors I have seen the best looking and toughest is
Br-111 exotic hardwood. It is not outrageously expensive.
Armstrong also makes some good hardwood, but steer clear of some of their products such as Bruce LocknFold or other “floating” hardwoods.

QUESTION:
Should I fill in the depressions left behind by the tack strip nails when installing engineered wood flooring?
When removing the tack strips from our concrete subfloor, little depressions in the concrete were left behind along the edges of the walls. Is it necessary to fill those in with a self leveling compound, or can I just install the engineered hardwood over these areas?

ANSWER:
Self leveling compounds are ideal for smoothing out uneven wooden floors and concrete floors. Older wooden floors can have humps and dips associated with them due to sagging or twisting floor joists. Likewise, concrete floors typically have valleys and humps associated with them. Self leveling compounds are ideal for feathering out the dips in a wood subfloor or concrete floor.
http://www.levelingfloorcompound.com is a website you could look at for further research to help you make a better decision

QUESTION:
Is solid hardwood flooring louder than engineered wood flooring on above ground levels?
I was told a thick layer of polyurethane glue works just as well as cork for sound proofing for hardwood floors on above ground levels.

ANSWER:
Your speaking of the noise level in the rooms where the flooring is or below the floor like in a lower room.

Eng. flooring is a little louder in the room it is placed because it is usually not attached to the floor– in many cases it float over the sub floor may even have micro foam underlayment. This means the room below may be quieter.

Solid wood is quieter in the room because it is usually attached with glue or nails or both. may be louder in the lower room.

Solutions solid wood. use cork underlayment, it is available in 2′ squares. makes a world of difference. Eng. deal with it, rugs.

As for the poly. I just don’t believe it.

QUESTION:
I want to install engineered wood flooring do I install a floating floor or use a staple gun?

ANSWER:
The manufacturer of your engineered product will advise you as to whether it should float or be glued. It is unlikely they will recommend nailing it. My guess is they will tell you to float it. Engineered flooring is an epoxy product that locks together when you install it. Once you have enough down, the product becomes very stable and will not move but several strips by themselves will slide all over the place. We just installed such a product. Follow the directions carefully and you should not have any problem. Make sure the subfloor if sound and flat.

QUESTION:
Glueing Engineered wood flooring to Concrete slab?
Anyone done it? How did it work out and how was the glue (Odor, how long did it linger and how toxic was it)? I appreciate your answers. Thanks.
Yes, on a “floating floor”, but installers are telling me that engineered hardwood is able to be glued straight to the slab, vice regular hardwood.

just wondering if anyone has done it.

ANSWER:
If its an engineered wood not or the lock( floating system) then yes you can glue it to the slab since its the only way.
If it is a floating floor then you absolutely cannot glue it down..
It not hard work but you will have a sore arm since the glue used is very thick and stiff. The odors and smell is not bad and will dissipate soon after installation.
You cannot glue a true hard wood to a slab so they are right about that.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar, I ve done several 1000 s/f of glue direct engineered wood and a few 100,000 s/f of laminate. GL

QUESTION:
Our engineered wood flooring is buckling and popping when walked on, just weeks after installation. Solution?
Floor was installed on top of concrete slab with adhesive.

ANSWER:
Another thing is to make sure you check the humidity of the room. Also did you guys acclimate the wood? We recommend you acclimate the wood at least 3 days before installation. Some manufactures recommend up to 1 week.

QUESTION:
Have you had a favorible experience with engineered wood flooring?

ANSWER:
I have installed it for people, and have found that it seems to be more scratch risistant, and looks as good as the real stuff.

QUESTION:
Is it better to use solid wood or engineered wood for flooring?
Originally I was told engineered is better. More stable. Less likely to warp. Because it is superior and harder to make it is more expensive.
Today, my contractor said I should use solid wood.
So far I learned that engineered wood contains formaldihide.
Also, that one supplier won’t sell engineered wood.
Would love to know if I was sold a bill of goods early on.
Alternatively, want to make sure I buy the right product.

ANSWER:
Truthfully, it depends upon what your subfloor is made of.

If your subfloor is concrete….engineered wood is the way to go. The layers of the wood in an engineered product help the moisture to get out of the floor. That’s why it is a more dimentionally stable floor. And while you may think that you are limited by your color choices….there are MANY manufacturers, and they all have their own color line. IF after you have looked at Anderson, Bruce, Appalichian, Columbia, Shaw, Mohawk, Scandia, Mirage, Tarkett, Mulligan, Forest Accents, Robbins, and Hartco – and still can’t find the color you like….Plankfloor by Owens is an unfinished engineered wood. You can glue it to the slab and have a sand and finish guy stain to whatever color you prefer. Also, if you prefer wider plank say 5-7 inches – an engineered floor will give you far less problem. In a solid floor of that width, there is more surface area to absorb moisture.

As far as pricing – it is not necessarily more than solid…depends on the wood species and width….there is an engineered floor for every budget. In regards to refinishing an engineered floor, with each price point, you can see the difference in the wood layer on top. There are products such as Mirage, Forest Accents, and the Owens floor with the exact same wear layer as a solid wood – and can be sanded 3 times. BUT – the only reason you need to sand a floor back to bare wood is if you a: have major damage or b: want to change the color. With any wood floor, when you start to see surface scratching over time – you can have a finisher come in and “buff and coat” the floor. That is where the top layer of urethane is taken off, and a new one applied. You can have this done as often as you like….you are never getting into the wood.

One of the misconceptions about solid wood is that you have this huge chunk of wood that can be sanded and refinished over and over. NOT TRUE! You only get 3 sandings, because you can’t sand past the tongue and groove. Contractors are often quick to say use solid – because that’s what they know. As far as the floor being sealed by having it sanded and finished…..that will last until the first change in temperature. Wood by it’s nature expands and contracts…that’s what it does…so if you have your floors done in the summer…then throw on the heat in the winter…the boards will shrink, and the seal is broken. So, yes, engineered floors are more dimentionally stable.

If your subfloors are plywood, and you want a narrow board width – go for the solid.

As far as bamboo – it’s a look that’s popular right now – but it is not wood, it’s a woody grass and is fingernail soft.

Laminate is good if you have lots of kids, but nothing looks like wood, except for wood. And if laminate becomes damaged, it is quite a chore to repair, and WHEN you see wear patterns in it…and you will eventually….it cannot be recoated, it must be replaced. I appreciate Consumer Reports said it was the best, I read the article….but people have been living on hardwood floors for hundreds of years, and they are better now than they were then.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to drop me an email.

QUESTION:
Engineered wood flooring — Durability and attractiveness in a 500+ patients/week in physicians’ office?

ANSWER:
In a physicians office, I would recommend an acrylic impregnated engineered hardwood. It’s commercially rated, and will hold up to more wear and tear. It definitely adds more warmth and friendliness to the area. Hartco makes a good product that I have used in many high traffic areas, as well as Permagrain. I’m assuming that you are considering this for the lobby or some other public area.

The downside is noise. Not knowing how your office is set up, when patients are checking in – with a hard surface on the floor – there is nothing to absorb sound, and it can be easier for other patients to overhear what is being said.

In public areas and reception, I recommend carpet tiles. The advantage is, if there is an “accident”, and an area gets stained – you can replace those tiles with new ones.

If you want the wood look in the exam rooms, I would go with a commercial sheet vinyl. That way, you can have a more hygenic surface. I once did a whole sleep lab in wood grain sheet vinyl for that very reason. It looked great. Mannington and Armstrong make a very nice durable product.

If you have any other questions, feel free to drop me an email – medical offices are my speciality.

QUESTION:
What hard wood flooring is better solid or engineered?
What hard wood flooring is better solid or engineered. The flooring is going to be placed in a bed room and family room

ANSWER:
The question might not be which hardwood flooring type is better; but which one is best for you?

I would start out by asking if you are going to live in the house for the rest of your life, or at least a significant amount of time. The reason – more than half of all homeowners never sand and refinish hardwood flooring. It is normally the people who buy an existing home with hardwood flooring who do the work.

The issue of how many times solid or engineered can be refinished has everything to do with the quality and thickness of the top layer (above the tongue and groove). I have seen engineered floors that can’t be refinished at all because they have a paper thin top layer, but I have seen others that could be refinished as much as any 3/4″ solid tongue and groove hardwood flooring. Many engineered floors can be fully sanded as much as solid. Why? Because the top layer is the same as solid hardwood. You can only sand hardwood flooring down to about 1/8″ of the T&G, so if the engineered has a 1/8 to 1/4″ wear layer, you can sand it just about as much as a solid floor. So, if you were to consider engineered, you might want to look at one with a thicker wear layer if sanding and refinishing is a concern for you.

The next question I would ask is where you live. This is important because of the climate. Hardwood flooring is sensitive to humidty or the lack thereof. For example, if you live in the desert, I wouldn’t suggest solid flooring as the possibilities of it shrinking and having issues from lack of humidty are much higher than engineered. If you live in Hawaii, both types; solid and engineered can work well, but solid requires a lot more care when installing. This is because solid hardwood flooring has more mass and therefore can have greater changes with humidity levels.

The third question would be, how much traffic are you anticipating in these areas. A bedroom is usually light traffic where the family room can be moderate to heavy. Solid and engineered (quality) are about the same. It doesn’t really matter. It all comes down to the quality of the finish used, the material (aluminum oxide, ceramic, etc). Having 7 coats or 11 coats is just a sales pitch and it is much more about the procedure on how it was manufactured. For example UV coatings are very durable. If the traffic was heavy, I would consider a harder wood. You can look at the Janka Hardness Chart (link below) and find the hardness of woods. For example Ipe and Brazilian Cherry are much harder then North American maple or red oak. If traffic is light, then almost any floor on the chart might be suitable for you.

http://www.findanyfloor.com/hardwood/JankaHardnessRatings.xhtml

The fourth question would be about installation. If you are a homeowner doing it yourself, engineered is the way to go. It is MUCH easier to install, especially if it is a floating flooring (meaning no glue or nailing). If it is a glue-down, then solid or engineered may be about the same. If you have experience installing flooring and you want to nail down the floor, then solid might be your choice. With solid wood floors (if you are nailing) you will need more tools (nailers, compressor, etc).

Here is a link to instructions on how to install hardwood flooring yourself.

http://www.findanyfloor.com/hardwood/InstallingHardwoodFlooring.xhtml

As you can see, there really are a lot of factors that go in to talking about the differences between solid and engineered wood flooring. The last statement I would make is about how much more environmentally friendly engineered flooring can be over solid. This is because you can get a far greater yield out of the finished hardwood with engineered because you are only using the finished hardwood type on the top layer. This is why engineered flooring has seen a dramatic increase in sales over the last 7 to 10 years and solid has declined. Most manufacturers inside and outside the US are retooling their factories to handle more engineered as solid will have a much smaller role in the future. Of course, like anything else, you can’t make a blanket statement on this as well. Engineered, while more environmentally friendly (in concept) is a manufactured product. You have to take into account the glues that were used to press the layers together, the finish in the top layer, etc. But overall, the industry would agree that engineered hardwood flooring is the way of the future.

I hope this helps you. It was a lot of information but in my opinion, the information needed to make an informed decision about what is best for you.

QUESTION:
Remodeling — getting wood floors — should I do solid or engineered wood flooring?

ANSWER:
One thing to remember is if you use the sand and finish type wood flooring, you will have to live with the dust and inconvenience of the loss of using the room for several days. I would still recommend the sand and finish flooring if you can deal with the hassle of the dust etc. Now, one thing that others haven’t mentioned is the fact that most engineered flooring comes with a 20-25 year warranty on the finish. Check and see, because if you don’t want to have to bother re-doing your flooring for a long time, you might want to invest in the engineered flooring but to me, it looks “fake”. Not really like laminate but I just don’t like the pre-finished OR the engineered floors, but you have to make that call depending on your financial situation as well as the inconvenience you’re willing to experience. Also be sure when you pick out your flooring, if you DO use the engineered or pre-finished, look at the space between the boards……some have a deeper groove which, to me, would catch dirt.
In a sand and finish floor, of course there is no groove, so that is also a plus. (another thing to remember is, if you really want something pretty that will be unusual, do something in the exotic woods instead of the oak that everyone does. While oak is nice, it’s so blase. Almost everyone has oak and while it’s less expensive, if you shop around, you might be able to get a good deal on an exotic hardwood, such as Brazilian Cherry, which is what I have. It is the first thing people notice when they walk in!!!) So, think about that as well and have fun doing this. Good luck to you!!!!!!!

QUESTION:
Difference between engineered wood flooring and solid wood flooring?

ANSWER:
The engineered flooring is less likely to expand or contract than solid wood so it will be more stable.

QUESTION:
solid wood v engineered wood flooring?
I am about to purchase new flooring and cant make up my mind about which flooring to buy, solid wood or engineered wood.

ANSWER:
Hi La La, I’m Blake from The Home Depot. Both flooring options are a good choice and will provide you with a long life.

Engineered wood flooring is easier to install, as it is almost always click-lock and can be floated above an underlayment. This makes it easy for even the weekend warrior to knock out. It provides the same looks as its solid counterpart and is significantly less expensive. It can also be refinished 1 or 2 times depending on severity.

Solid hardwood floor usually needs to be nailed down and/or glued down, which requires special tools and equipment. However, some manufacturers are offering solid hardwood in click lock for floating floors. The advantage of a solid hardwood floor is in longevity. A Solid hardwood floor can be refinished more than you will want to refinish it and will last literally as long as you would like it too (assuming you take care of it).

The big question is “how long do you want this floor to last?” If you are looking at 10-20 years then go with the engineered floor and take good care of it. If you want the floor to last longer then go with the hardwood.

I hope this helps you make a decision La La.

-Blake

QUESTION:
how long does it take for engineered wood flooring to acclimatize before installation in florida?

ANSWER:
Depends on the make of the wood and method of installing. Some do not need any, some need up to 4 days. Are you doing it now, during the dry season? It will not need much time. Just ask the store you are buying from. If you do not trust them for the correct answer why did you buy from them.

QUESTION:
I have a new home with engineered wood flooring. The wood floors are peeking at the joints. Whats wrong?

ANSWER:
When an engineered floor is installed, the installer MUST leave about 3/8 of an inch all the way around the edge of the room which is covered by the base molding. This allows for expansion and contraction. It sounds like the installer didn’t leave ample room around the edges and when the floor expanded, since it has no room to expand, it is “peeking” as you called it.

QUESTION:
how do i lay an engineered wood floor?
I am about to lay an engineered wood floor on top of existing suspended wooded floor boards. Is the cheap 2mm underlay sufficient for the job? Also, do I need to staple/stick the underlay onto the existing floorboards? I’ve read that you are suppose to lay the engineered floor across the existing floor boards for strength, etc. However, the existing floor boards go lengthwise across the room. Would the new floor look silly if the boards went widthwise?

ANSWER:
Whisper sweet nothings in it’s ear. Sweet talk it into laying down. Place the cream liberally on it’s bottom, and PRESS HARD! :)

In reality, I have no idea. I just wanted to crack a joke at the “lay” part.

QUESTION:
Do I have to glue an engineered wood floor down?
What should I look for in a quality engineered wood floor? Where is the best place to buy flooring if I’m installing it myself?

ANSWER:
Things to look for are the thickness of the wear layer, as well as the warranty. Engineered floors can be installed floating, or they can be glued, stapled, or nailed down. If they have the “click-lock” joint, they must be installed as a floating floor. If the joints are simple tongue and groove, and you install them as a floating floor, the joints must be glued. There are a lot of different places to get flooring. You can go to a home center, such as Lowe’s or HD, or you can go to a flooring store. Do some shopping around, and pick up samples when you can so you can compare the floors. Hope this helps.

QUESTION:
does the new wood flooring called engineered flooring scratch easily?
Not sure whether to get wood floors in new home!!!

ANSWER:
Engineered flooring is halfway between the laminates and true hardwood. Engineered, have a thick (3/16”) veneer of the given specie of wood over a substrate of plywood. These floor are very good, and they scratch no easier than traditional hardwood

QUESTION:
Engineered wood flooring?
I am looking to install wood flooring in a kitchen and I head engineered wood is a good option.

Can someone recommend good engineered wood brands. I’m looking for which companies make the best engineered wood flooring. I’m looking to spend around -.50 a square foot. Thanks

ANSWER:
I am not a fan of wood flooring, engineered or otherwise, in kitchens and bathrooms because it is very difficult to maintain . Water spills get under the wood and cause it to cup, i.e., turn up along the edges. Also, that trapped water leads to mold and mildew problems. Water that stands on the wood causes it to delaminate and discolor. Give me ceramic tile for kitchens and bathrooms any time.

The only flooring worse than wood in these spaces is carpet but I’ll save that for a rant somewhere and sometime else. Of course, all of the above is only my opinion.

QUESTION:
Parawood Flooring = Engineered Wood flooring?
Can someone tell me the differences between

Parawood flooring
Engineered wood flooring

I think I saw parawood flooring in Wickes but it looks like the backing is made of real wood. And it’s around £!5/m^2. Can it be cheaper than that? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

ANSWER:
Parawood are the trees that are harvested for Latex. It is a solid wood like oak or maple. Engineered flooring has a veneer on the top of plywood material. Here is a website that sells both of them.

http://www.floors2go.co.uk/products/productdetail.php?category_id=offers&product_id=594&variation_id=1829&search_term=

QUESTION:
Does anyone know of a high end wood flooring company that specializes in engineered flooring?
Please let me know if you do, I’m looking for a product to install into several projects I have going on. Please let me know of your experiences, if any, with this company.

ANSWER:
It’s funny that you just posted this George. I actually just wrapped up working with a project that required a certain square footage of engineered hardwood flooring. I found, through a company in Manhattan New York, called PID floors a product called LoPark Parquet. PID Floors just opened a gorgeous showroom showcasing this product. All in all the ordering and installation went smooth. I think their website is… www.pidfloors.com

Let me know if this helps!

QUESTION:
Laying engineered wood flooring over vinyl flooring?
Can engineered wood flooring be installed on vinyl flooring?

I’m in the middle of home improvement project and have decided to lay some engineered wood flooring for my kitchen. The particular brand that I’ve bought requires glue-down installation.

The problem is, there’s vinyl flooring that’s been laid with cutback and it’s not going to come up without a significant amount of work and then re-preparation of the sub flooring. I’ve been to the local home improvement center several times and can’t really get a straight answer as to if this is possible. I’ve searched the Internet and its about 50-50 yes and no.

I’d really like anybody’s input into my situation, as I am under a little bit of a time constraint to finish the project as this is my new house and I’ve got to move out of my old house in in a week.

Thanks in advance to your answers!

ANSWER:
If you are laying down Bruce or Armstrong flooring, they have instructions for laying over vinyl flooring. Basically you can’t lay the flooring over more than 2 layers of vinyl. You want to make sure the flooring is stripped, not sanded, especially if there is a gloss on the floor. Don’t sand if its a resilient floor, it may contain asbestos. Also they recommend specific adhesives that will bond with the floor.

QUESTION:
Why is my engineered wood floor separating?
I purchased engineered wood flooring, following manuf. requests, but it started to separate within a month. I pulled it all apart and GLUED it back down, removing the moisture foam barrier stuff. Now EVEN after glueing the flooring to the subfloor- it is still separating in places, not as many, but Dang! lol

ANSWER:
If you mop it, and it isn’t nailed to the subfloor, it will absorb water and expand when wet and shrink when dry. This creates cracks as the expanding and shrinking causes it to pull away from each other.

QUESTION:
Installing Engineered Wood Floor – what to use to fill voids in subfloor before installation?
I’m installing an engineered wood floor in a second floor bedroom. Currently has a plywood subfloor in fairly decent shape. However there are some voids and gaps in the subfloor. What product should be used to fill these areas? Would ceramic tile adhesive work? Do the gaps between plywood sheets (maybe 1/8″ gap) need to be taped and filled?

Thanks?

ANSWER:
Do NOT fill the gaps between the sheets of plywood! These need to be there to allow for wood expansion. In fact, if you don’t have those gaps, run a circular saw, set at 3/4″, down all the joints to open them up. With out this gap, if the plywood swells, it will buckle up at the joints.

Voids in the subfloor like knot holes in the top ply aren’t an issue. But dips and high spots are an issue. Make sure all the nail heads are flush (and add deck screws if there are any loose spots).

Your flooring instructions should list the maximum dip/rise in a given run. If you’ve got low spots (cr@py carpenter didn’t crown all the joists), you can cut pieces of roofing felt to fill in the void. If it takes several layers, “feather” them with progressively larger pieces, just like you’d feather a drywall joint. High spots can be taken down with a grinder or belt sander with 40 grit paper

If you’ve got a floor with a lot of dips and rises, you can use a self leveling cement to bring it level. It’s very thin, like a runny milkshake, and you spread a thin layer with a large floor squeegee. It’s thin enough that it finds it’s own level, puddling in the low spots. This is typically only needed for tile, but you could do it for wood/laminate.over a really bad subfloor

QUESTION:
Have you ever used Engineered Wood floors in your basement?
We are about to finish the floors in our basement and the guy at home depot suggested engineered wood floors instead of pergo type floors. They r real wood, do you know if this is a good product, and any negative things about it. Also the guy said it could be refinished, but it looked too thin for that to me.

ANSWER:
Engineered woods are perfect for basement areas, as the other poster explained….the layers of the wood help the moisture to get out of the wood, making it a more dimentionally stable product. As far as refinishing an engineered wood – there are certain products that can be refinished 3 times, but you aren’t going to find those at Home Depot.

HOWEVER – when you start to see surface scratches and traffic patterns, a sand and finisher can come in and “buff and coat” the floor. This is where the top layer of urethane is removed and another coat applied. You can do this every year if you like, because you aren’t sanding into the wood layer. The only time you need to sand a floor back to bare wood(like in refinishing) is if you want to change the color, or have some serious damage…..if you have that much damage with an engineered floor, you can always replace the damaged boards.

If you go with a laminate floor(Pergo), when you start to see surface scratches, and traffic patterns – which will occur….there is nothing that you can do to refresh the floors and get the scratches out because they’re basically plastic.

QUESTION:
Used 3m pad on engineered wood floor, what do I use and how do I spot repair the finish?
Scandian engineered wood. 3M green pad used to clean small areas in floor. Have about 20 places which now look dull from an angle. Need to fill in these small places for a uniform look.

ANSWER:
Anything you attempt to do will only make matters worse, and they will stand out more. Even a professional floor refinisher would be hard pressed to make a perfect, undetectable repair on 20 small areas. It would probably be easier (and the results more uniform) to buff and coat the entire floor.

If they bother you that much, I would suggest calling a professional hardwood floor refinishing company to come out and look at your floor and present you with some options.^

QUESTION:
How do you fix an engineered wood floor when the adhesive is coming up in spots?
My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago – about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that “give” or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn’t take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that’s what no experience gets you ; )

Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.

One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere.

Any other suggestions that don’t include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?

ANSWER:
You can go to an animal feed store and buy a horse syringe, use a thin adhesive and drill a 1/16″ hole. That’s about the only way. My laminate repair kit costs 5, so it’s not worth it for the consumer to purchase for a one time repair. all it consists of really is a large horse syringe

QUESTION:
Do I need a moisture barrier for our engineered wood floor install?
We are building a new home and are having engineered wood floors 1/2″ thick and 5″ wide installed in our living room and hallways, no wet areas. Our floor installer says he does not usually put a moisture under the wood floors and it has always worked out fine. I have read conflicting information regarding having the moisture barrier and not having it. I would appreciate any information or opinions.

ANSWER:
If your installer is going over a standard, above grade ply wood sub floor , then he is right, no moisture barrier is needed. Slab or below grade is a different story.
He should be putting down a red rosin paper or felt paper. This is almost mandatory.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar . I ve attended several installation seminars as well as installed several thousand s/f on engineered wood. GL

engineered wood flooring